I wake early to a strong wind. Dawn reveals a small herd of impala grazing by the river bank only 10 meters away. Hippo snort in the distance. The sky is overcast. At 06:00 there is a bit of light rain. Craig decides to move the camp to a large public camp nearer the park entrance. If rain comes, the road to this location would turn into impassable, viscous mud and we could be stuck for days.

We pack up our gear as the sky darkens, worried that we brought no rain gear. John Berry assured me that rain in October was not worth worrying about. The weather never listens to what people say.

On the one hour drive towards our new camp site, we see two hyena by the side of the road. One is limping, holding its left hind leg off the ground. "Probably from a fight with a lion" states Gus.

Our morning walk starts not far from the river. Almost immediately we spot two large bull elephants browsing in a lightly wooded area, about 90 meters away. We detour around them towards the river and pass waterbuck, and elan, some baboons and the "rare and elusive" impala, as Craig likes to call them.

After a 45 minute stroll we stop at the edge of a marshy area which opens up towards the river channel. Four waterbuck stare at us intently, and far off a lone elephant rests in silhouette. A long pause for bird watching ensues, and I can see Stuart is getting bored. Sue wanders down the bank and flushes a slender mongoose out of the tall grass. It bolts right towards us, 4 feet from where I'm sitting, and practically collides with Jane, all so quickly we hardly have time to react, a beautifully golden gingery blur of fur.

The sky is still overcast from the morning drizzle. As we start to head back, we immediately spot two more bull elephants. I'm not sure if they are the same pair we saw earlier. We are upwind. Gus stops. In a few minutes, at 150 meters, one of them raises its trunk and scents us, then returns to browsing. We saunter around to their right, approaching to within 60 meters, then move past them. I keep glancing back over my shoulder as we leave them behind, but they ignore us.

Further on we come across a group of five elephants, including a baby less than a year old. We keep our distance from where they are resting quietly in the trees. Passing them we come across two more bulls: perhaps these are the two we spotted when we started this walk. Ten elephants in one walk!

Returning to the Land Rover we are greeted by a small pile of buffalo dung on the drivers seat. Did some demented buffalo climb over the vehicle and let loose? Nope, its the signature calling card of a friend of Gus's.

A short drive takes us to our new campsite. This is the main public camp. It is not overly crowded, but its a far cry from the privacy of where we were the first two days. Fortunately, unlike American park sites, the playing of TVs and radios is not allowed, nor are portable generators permitted. So there is some peace. The tents have been set up and we pick one that offers a view of the river.

During lunch, three buffalo pass by within 30 meters of us, peacefully grazing. Craig relates that last year a woman was killed by a buffalo in this camp before one of the camp staff was able to shoot the buffalo, preventing it from charging someone else. "She was probably doing something stupid" he said. I keep an eye on the buffalo as I eat, as Gus is sitting unarmed with his back to it. He doesn't seem very concerned.

Our afternoon game drive is to a nearby pool full of hippo. Two males are fighting, mouths gaping and roaring belligerently. Then they quit and a peaceful quiet descends on the water. On the way back we spot several elephant near camp.

It is much cooler today, and the clouds do not blow over until mid-afternoon. The hippos serenade us from their bathing spots. We manage a nap.

After sunset, sitting at the dining table waiting for dinner to be served, everyone is brought to attention when an elephant wanders through the camp within 20 meters of the kitchen. It is so dark he is difficult to make out except when he passes in front of the lights from nearby campers. I am making notes in my diary by kerosene lamp. Next to me on the table is Gus's .44 Magnum. I feel a bit more secure.

That night the animal sounds seem subdued. At one point I wake up and think I see a hyena standing in front of the tent. I peer into the darkness, and the vague forms seems to assume the shape of a baboon. I reach for my glasses and can't see anything at all: must be my sleepy imagination. Back to sleep.